Has anybody got any special tips (note the pun) for soldering using lead-free solder?
I must admit that I never did win any prizes for my soldering, but I do still try to make a reasonable job of it. Today I did a bit of soldering, simple stuff with fresh components ... but, well let's just say that I wouldn't have won many accolades there, either. And in "less than ideal" conditions (
ie, the normal case), I sometimes reckon I would do better with a blob of well-chewed gum!
It seems that lead-free technique requires a hotter tip, and longer on the joint ... both of which is bad news to my mind. I'm using stuff that is 99.3% tin and 0.7% copper. Why we had to move away from the traditional tin-lead solder is beyond me (what was the problem, were idiots eating it, or what), but of course it's a "done deal" now.
It all seems to take so much longer too, and even when you have made a reasonable joint, it doesn't have that nice shiny look to it that good soldered joints used to have (in fact they all seem to look suspiciously like "dry joints" to me). So much, then, for so-called "progress".
It looks like I need to invest in a new regulated soldering iron to have any hope of producing reasonable joints. But, before I start splashing out, does anybody have any genius comments or recommendations (special fluxes, perhaps)?
For those of you lucky enough not to be in Europe (and consequently may not even know what lead-free solder is),
here is a .pdf.
